Halston (1932-1990)
Biography
How did this person from a modest middle class background grow up to become America’s arbiter of fashion taste? The known Halston was born as Roy Halston Frowick in Des Moines, Iowa. Growing up in the Midwest allowed him to experience all seasons and to dress for them appropriately. He began dressing his mother and sister at a very young age. It was something that he enjoyed doing. He studied at the Art Institute and began working as a Merchandiser at an upscale department store. (Halston Biography). From then he met a famous hairdresser. He began with designing hats and working for big names, but his dresses are where his fame came from.
Halston was never a formally trained designer; it just fell into his lap for knowing the right people. He was a milliner for Bergdorf Goodman. His attention to detail lead him to co-design for Madame Dache in New York, on Park Avenue. She helped him get in the limelight and then he took off. People loved his hats after seeing them on popular people. He had this ability to court the press. Being his smart self he learned about what every fashion editor from Vogue to Women’s Wear Daily was looking for in design. (Halston 11)
He then had a ready to wear line, which is really what took his career to the next level in 1966 because not everyone could afford or continue to wear Haute Couture. As they say what goes up must come down, he hit a rough patch and he was spending more than he was making. Things changed and he bounced back, he targeted celebrities to wear his items, which made him a hot commodity(Halston 13) Newsweek magazine announced that he was "simply the premier fashion designer of all America (Halston 14)." By 1965 he was unstoppable and his wealth grew very rapidly. He gave up the dream for Haute Couture and began the route of dressing all of America for JC Penny. The pressure caused him to become heavily involved with drugs, and his career was short lived. He became erratic and controlling, which lead his business down the drain. No one wanted to work for him. By 1983 his name and company was completely sold (Halston 20). Halston was diagnosed the AIDS in 1988, and spent every last minute he had with friends and family. Halston being the charmer he is went out with dignity and humor knowing that he had a very blessed life and one of his last acts was giving his white Rolls-Royce to donate for AIDS foundation (Halston 21).
Halston was never a formally trained designer; it just fell into his lap for knowing the right people. He was a milliner for Bergdorf Goodman. His attention to detail lead him to co-design for Madame Dache in New York, on Park Avenue. She helped him get in the limelight and then he took off. People loved his hats after seeing them on popular people. He had this ability to court the press. Being his smart self he learned about what every fashion editor from Vogue to Women’s Wear Daily was looking for in design. (Halston 11)
He then had a ready to wear line, which is really what took his career to the next level in 1966 because not everyone could afford or continue to wear Haute Couture. As they say what goes up must come down, he hit a rough patch and he was spending more than he was making. Things changed and he bounced back, he targeted celebrities to wear his items, which made him a hot commodity(Halston 13) Newsweek magazine announced that he was "simply the premier fashion designer of all America (Halston 14)." By 1965 he was unstoppable and his wealth grew very rapidly. He gave up the dream for Haute Couture and began the route of dressing all of America for JC Penny. The pressure caused him to become heavily involved with drugs, and his career was short lived. He became erratic and controlling, which lead his business down the drain. No one wanted to work for him. By 1983 his name and company was completely sold (Halston 20). Halston was diagnosed the AIDS in 1988, and spent every last minute he had with friends and family. Halston being the charmer he is went out with dignity and humor knowing that he had a very blessed life and one of his last acts was giving his white Rolls-Royce to donate for AIDS foundation (Halston 21).
Critical Analysis
Halston reflected the zeitgeist of the the nineteen sixties and seventies because he set himself apart from the others. He was hardly on the bandwagon of Haute Couture, although he made amazing dresses. He was the American designer of his times just as someone like Michael Kors is today. At this time fashion was unchanging until he came along, it was not democratic. He had fantasy ideas that were influenced by his boyfriend and the rock n roll lifestyle he lived. He was wanted by the European and seen as an equal for the first time (Ultrasuede). He knew the fashion business in and out. His designs were made for what people needed and wanted, he had this talent to know what was going to be popular next and this is how he influenced our world today.
His claim to fame was the time when he dressed Jacqueline Kennedy for the presidential inauguration (Halston 9). His designs were influenced by the world around him. At this time he was inspired to be different from every other designer was creating. Although he used celebrities to his advantage to promote his clothing it was After the World War 11, most were not thriving being on restriction from clothing. "His aesthetic was out of this world with clean, directive, and to the point garnets. People wanted them and paid the money for it (Ultrasuede...)." He channeled the hollywood glamour with the celebrities of his time. If they wanted to look the part, they went to Halston to find it. People would pay for his pricy designs.
Halston dominated an era, the sexy seventies, by wrapping it in cashmere, upholstering it in Ultrasuede and perfuming it with his signature fragrance. He was a advocate who fully advocated the minimalist aesthetic. The best known product was the shirtwaist dress (Halston 7). Others included a sarong dress inspirited by Africa, tie dye prints, ornament garnets, and large stiffly ruffled collars. He also believed in the idea of evolution, like Balenciage and Charles James, and they were partially influential to him for the fact that they chose one idea over many seasons. He also had trademark sunglasses that were day to night and that completed the "Halston" look (Halston Biography).
His claim to fame was the time when he dressed Jacqueline Kennedy for the presidential inauguration (Halston 9). His designs were influenced by the world around him. At this time he was inspired to be different from every other designer was creating. Although he used celebrities to his advantage to promote his clothing it was After the World War 11, most were not thriving being on restriction from clothing. "His aesthetic was out of this world with clean, directive, and to the point garnets. People wanted them and paid the money for it (Ultrasuede...)." He channeled the hollywood glamour with the celebrities of his time. If they wanted to look the part, they went to Halston to find it. People would pay for his pricy designs.
Halston dominated an era, the sexy seventies, by wrapping it in cashmere, upholstering it in Ultrasuede and perfuming it with his signature fragrance. He was a advocate who fully advocated the minimalist aesthetic. The best known product was the shirtwaist dress (Halston 7). Others included a sarong dress inspirited by Africa, tie dye prints, ornament garnets, and large stiffly ruffled collars. He also believed in the idea of evolution, like Balenciage and Charles James, and they were partially influential to him for the fact that they chose one idea over many seasons. He also had trademark sunglasses that were day to night and that completed the "Halston" look (Halston Biography).
Analysis for Future Trends
No one will ever live up to Halston's socialite life he lived and the dreams he dreamed. He will never be forgotten for his intricate designs because they play a huge role into what we have evolved into today.
He created one of the very first lifestyle brands and this is seen by a lot of designers today. They select a certain style such as "at the beach" or "back to school" and design just for this specific purpose. Halston was one of the most influentional designers of our time. I say that on a personal level, because when i was young, he was the designer i aspired to be like. He understood luxury, glamour, simplicity, fit and the importance of uniform. To me he represented all that was modern and pure.- Donna Karan (Halston 108) He also influenced Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs designs.
Halston's name and designs still live on today. His name is carried on and known especially by the famous Sarah Jessica Parker. Who worked for his Halston line until 2011 (Elle). The line is still on trend with cut outs, pleats, sequins, and trousers (Autumn/ Winter). I think we will continue to see the seventies inspired looks for a few more decades.
By 1999 while Halston Lifestyle was being phased out, three additional lines were added: Halston was a bridge line, Halston Designer offered less expensive designer clothes, and Halston Signature featured the most expensive garments. Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue carried the lines. At the same time, the company expanded its licensees which numbered more than twenty by 2000. The popularity of 1970s fashion and the timeless quality of Halston’s designs have restored the legacy and endurance of the Halston name.Inside, the lights were turned down low and the music was turned way up high. To the soundtrack of a pounding disco beat, London-based designer Marios Schwab showed off his third collection for Halston. This was not a show, however, but an intimate presentation - just 27 outfits, each worn by a different girl.
vionnet with geometrical cutouts
He created one of the very first lifestyle brands and this is seen by a lot of designers today. They select a certain style such as "at the beach" or "back to school" and design just for this specific purpose. Halston was one of the most influentional designers of our time. I say that on a personal level, because when i was young, he was the designer i aspired to be like. He understood luxury, glamour, simplicity, fit and the importance of uniform. To me he represented all that was modern and pure.- Donna Karan (Halston 108) He also influenced Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs designs.
Halston's name and designs still live on today. His name is carried on and known especially by the famous Sarah Jessica Parker. Who worked for his Halston line until 2011 (Elle). The line is still on trend with cut outs, pleats, sequins, and trousers (Autumn/ Winter). I think we will continue to see the seventies inspired looks for a few more decades.
By 1999 while Halston Lifestyle was being phased out, three additional lines were added: Halston was a bridge line, Halston Designer offered less expensive designer clothes, and Halston Signature featured the most expensive garments. Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue carried the lines. At the same time, the company expanded its licensees which numbered more than twenty by 2000. The popularity of 1970s fashion and the timeless quality of Halston’s designs have restored the legacy and endurance of the Halston name.Inside, the lights were turned down low and the music was turned way up high. To the soundtrack of a pounding disco beat, London-based designer Marios Schwab showed off his third collection for Halston. This was not a show, however, but an intimate presentation - just 27 outfits, each worn by a different girl.
vionnet with geometrical cutouts
Works Cited
"Autumn/Winter 2011, ELLE UK." Fashion, Trends, Beauty Tips & Celebrity Style Magazine, ELLE UK. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Aug. 2012. <http://www.elleuk.com/catwalk/designer-a-z/halston/autumn-winter-2011#image=15>.
"Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com." Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Sept. 2012. <http://www.wwd.com>.Halston . New York: Phaidon Press Limited, 2001. Print."Halston 1970's." Style Sight. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Aug. 2012. <www.stylesight.com/>
Gross, Elaine, and Fred Rottman. Halston: an American original. New York: HarperCollinsPublishers, 1999. Print.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX55Tlyvq7U
" Halston Biography - Facts, Birthday, Life Story - Biography.com ." Famous Biographies & TV Shows - Biography.com . A & E Networks, n.d. Web. 17 Aug. 2012. <http://www.biography.com/people/halston-20672697>.
" Halston (Roy Halston Frowick) - Halston’s, Hats, Designer, and Wear - JRank Articles ." Online 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Aug. 2012. <http://encyclopedia.jrank.org/articles/pages/1762/Halston-Roy-Halston-Frowick.html#ixzz23qUORZbc>
Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston. Dir. Whitney Sudler-Smith. Perf. Liza Minnellli, Andre Leon Talley, Diane Von Furstenberg, Billy Joel. Ultra Films, LLC., 2010. DVD.
"WGSN Fashion Trend Forecasting & Analysis | WGSN." WGSN Fashion Trend Forecasting & Analysis | WGSN. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Sept. 2012. <http://www.wgsn.com.>
"YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.." YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.. N.p., n.d. Web. 9 Sept. 2012. <http://www.youtube.com>.