Mary McFadden (1938-Present)
Biography
Mary McFadden grew up in Tennesse on a plantation. She came from a great deal of wealth and grew up with a nurse or as we know it a care-taker. Her family was from Rober Fulton, who commercialized the steamboat on the Hudson River. When her father died at a very young age on a ski trip, she felt, "the void of not having a father brings another kind of strength (Mc Fadden 14)." After his profound death McFadden was sent to a military school. After this she went to Seventh Avenue in New York City, where she eventually spent most of her career. (McFadden 14) She went to school then dropped out a few months later. She then went to live with her girl friend who had a "in" in the fashion industry. She just followed along and kept mum. Eventually one night she was able to speak with Henry Sherman who was the president of Christion Dior. Mary, whom always spoke her mind, asked him for a interview and said, "I dont know anything about public relations, but if you dont like the work i do for you, you can fire me after five months. If you keep me I would like o be paid in kind: twenty Dior dresses from Paris couture per season and twenty dresses from New York per season.(McFadden 23) " After five months......I was hired." (McFadden 23)She then bought a painting from selling all of those amazing dresses. This is where her love for art began. She eventually collected many pieces from famous artists. She then moved to Africa. She returned every year to be inspired by that place. She then ran into Diana Vreeland and arranged for her to be an editor for Vogue South Africa(24) After so many copies sold they eventually quit doing vogue South Africa so she bought a tobacco farm in Africa. Across from the farm there was a "small nuclear research center (McFadden 29) So they needed to buy her farm. She then began to work for a anti-government newspaper. Eventually she began to make dresses, despite the words of discouragement from her mother, "My mother told me I had chosen a second-rate profession when I could have made my way as a writer (McFadden 29). Then she met Frank McEwen a Director of of a national gallery in Zimbabwe(McFadden 29) He became her husband six short years later. She then had a daughter, Justine. This began her dress making. She knew that she could produce a product that was better than what was sold in South Africa. _
Critical Analysis
Mary McFadden really was influenced by the world around her. She was a world traveler that got her start in South Africa. Inspired by Ancient Greek-Heavy influence on her designs. She had a cultural time frame that influenced each collection she had. The Classical Period Collection 176, Greek Goddess Gown, then moved to Chinese the Kimono,Gengi Gown, then to indian, American Indian Collection.
"Most of my clothes are based on my first designs- adapted, reworked, freshened, largely through unconcious processes, which are mysterious to me. I dont know how my designs come to me except they come from inside."(McFadden 120) This plays into her aesthetic because she is able to create something so wearable from a place she does not even understand. She was just blessed with this gift. Mary McFadden believes that, "Fabric is where it all begins(McFadden 123)."
Her next adventure began with jewelry. My oddest gold is like a braid that is entwined with my, history, and places of the world...The inspiration for my jewels was rooted in the ancient world, astrological discs, archaic axes, winged images, live branches, mythological animals, and birds, Byzantine and Assyrian crosses (McFadden 206). These are all things that most designers would never let inspire them or even think about letting it inspire their work. This is why she is a different designer. Her aesthetic was taking real life things from the past and looking for inspiration, but to turn it into something contemporary that people could relate too. She then began with interior design.
The elements of her design included harmony,proportion, and color. When creating a garnet or design she used texture, richness, and contrast to really allude to the eye. It brought attention to certain details and created drama.As a preeminent designer she has used her unique skills to fashion an empire, supporting various charities, and overseeing numerous licenses for womenswear, sleepwear, footwear, eyewear, neckwear, and home furnishings(Baker).
"Most of my clothes are based on my first designs- adapted, reworked, freshened, largely through unconcious processes, which are mysterious to me. I dont know how my designs come to me except they come from inside."(McFadden 120) This plays into her aesthetic because she is able to create something so wearable from a place she does not even understand. She was just blessed with this gift. Mary McFadden believes that, "Fabric is where it all begins(McFadden 123)."
Her next adventure began with jewelry. My oddest gold is like a braid that is entwined with my, history, and places of the world...The inspiration for my jewels was rooted in the ancient world, astrological discs, archaic axes, winged images, live branches, mythological animals, and birds, Byzantine and Assyrian crosses (McFadden 206). These are all things that most designers would never let inspire them or even think about letting it inspire their work. This is why she is a different designer. Her aesthetic was taking real life things from the past and looking for inspiration, but to turn it into something contemporary that people could relate too. She then began with interior design.
The elements of her design included harmony,proportion, and color. When creating a garnet or design she used texture, richness, and contrast to really allude to the eye. It brought attention to certain details and created drama.As a preeminent designer she has used her unique skills to fashion an empire, supporting various charities, and overseeing numerous licenses for womenswear, sleepwear, footwear, eyewear, neckwear, and home furnishings(Baker).
Analysis for Future Trends
Fashion will always be influenced by Mary McFadden. She has influenced our aesthetic of many designers today. They look for aspirations from the world around them just as she did. The way she was inspired by cultural things such as Africa and how she re worked fabric we see that today in so many. McFadden was able to influence the world around her and thats why her trends will always live on. McFadden herself recommended, "Chiffons for the heavy figures, the pleats for the thin ones, and the velvets for everyone(Baker)."
McFadden's success as a designer came from the capability she had of re-inventing designs and to actually allow something different to influence her each time. As some other designers become stuck she just did what she knew to do and looked to the outside world and things around her to influence the pleats, sleeveless dressed, mini skirts and bold accessories.
Although her design house is closed down today after the tragic event of September 11th and when her career took a turn. Her items were priced highly for this devastating time. It may well be said of Mary McFadden that "she walks in beauty," especially since she wears her own designs. She has proven, however, that she is far more than a pretty face.
In addition to a very high priced luxury collection, her design projects have ranged from lingerie and at-home wear to furs, bed and bath, and upholsetery fabrics . She is a past president of the council of Fashion Designers of America(Stegemeyer 256).
McFadden's success as a designer came from the capability she had of re-inventing designs and to actually allow something different to influence her each time. As some other designers become stuck she just did what she knew to do and looked to the outside world and things around her to influence the pleats, sleeveless dressed, mini skirts and bold accessories.
Although her design house is closed down today after the tragic event of September 11th and when her career took a turn. Her items were priced highly for this devastating time. It may well be said of Mary McFadden that "she walks in beauty," especially since she wears her own designs. She has proven, however, that she is far more than a pretty face.
In addition to a very high priced luxury collection, her design projects have ranged from lingerie and at-home wear to furs, bed and bath, and upholsetery fabrics . She is a past president of the council of Fashion Designers of America(Stegemeyer 256).
Works Cited
Baker, Therese. "Mary Mcfadden - Fashion Designer Encyclopedia - clothing, women, ancient, suits, dress, style, new, body, hair, footwear, collection, dresses." Contemporary Fashion. N.p., n.d. Web. 26 Aug. 2012. http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Ma-Mu/Mcfadden-Mary.html#b.
"Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com." Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Sept. 2012. <http://www.wwd.com>.
McFadden, Mary, Murray Gell-Mann, and Ellen C. Fisher. Mary McFadden: A Lifetime of Design, Collecting and Adventure. New York: Rizzoli Intl Pubns, 2012. Print.
Stegemeyer, Anne, and Holly Alford. Who's who in fashion. 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988. Print.
"Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com." Fashion, Beauty and Retail News - WWD.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Sept. 2012. <http://www.wwd.com>.
McFadden, Mary, Murray Gell-Mann, and Ellen C. Fisher. Mary McFadden: A Lifetime of Design, Collecting and Adventure. New York: Rizzoli Intl Pubns, 2012. Print.
Stegemeyer, Anne, and Holly Alford. Who's who in fashion. 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988. Print.